Feeding 32 for Thanksgiving: Mama's Chinese Spiced Roast Turkey with Szechuan Peppercorns
November 24, 2019
Every couple of years, it's our turn to host my husband's giant family Thanksgiving celebration -- a two-day eating and games extravaganza dating back to 1950. Roasting a small preview turkey helps to generate drippings to support 15-20 pounds of mashed potatoes and ensure enough leftover turkey for the requisite Friday turkey noodle soup. I also enjoy the chance to get in a little experimentation, and to enjoy the luscious crisp fresh-from-the-oven turkey skin without distraction!
When I was growing up, my mother always made Chinese roasted duck for Thanksgiving, complete with little meatballs added after the duck fat rendered, tender but crisped on the outside. When her American-born children asked for turkey instead, she adapted her procedures to slow roast the much bigger bird. This resulted in a tender, delicious meal that she preferred cooking, as there was much less fat to be handled, but we lost the little meatballs in the process...
My Māmā 媽媽 would dry roast coarse salt with whole peppercorns in a skillet until the salt started to brown and the peppercorns could be crushed easily with the back of a spoon. This was rubbed over the turkey, inside and out. The salt/peppercorn mix was also rubbed over the neck and innards, which were nestled inside the cavity overnight with a good amount of ginger, garlic and scallions to "pull out" any bad odors. In the morning, the pan was cleaned and dried, the innards wrapped in foil, and the breast rubbed with toasted sesame oil before roasting. The technique that she used basically amounted to dry brining the bird for 12-24 h prior to roasting. I later discovered that the drippings produced the most delectable gravy with no additional seasoning needed.
My Māmā 媽媽 would dry roast coarse salt with whole peppercorns in a skillet until the salt started to brown and the peppercorns could be crushed easily with the back of a spoon. This was rubbed over the turkey, inside and out. The salt/peppercorn mix was also rubbed over the neck and innards, which were nestled inside the cavity overnight with a good amount of ginger, garlic and scallions to "pull out" any bad odors. In the morning, the pan was cleaned and dried, the innards wrapped in foil, and the breast rubbed with toasted sesame oil before roasting. The technique that she used basically amounted to dry brining the bird for 12-24 h prior to roasting. I later discovered that the drippings produced the most delectable gravy with no additional seasoning needed.
The 10-14 pound turkey is my favorite size for roasting. Over the years, I have experimented with techniques such as placing ice packs on the breast while the turkey warmed for 60-90 minutes on the counter, and measuring both breast and thigh temperature during roasting. It was difficult to get the ice to stay on, and the breast still cooked faster than the thigh.
This year, I was looking through photos and remembering how perfect the skin is fresh out of the oven, only to lose that perfect crisp, melt-in-the-mouth texture by the time the carved meat is served. I decided I would experiment. I would quickly strip most of the skin off right when the turkey came out and place on a dry plate the way they do with Peking duck. The skin can then be cut up and served separately from the meat.
This year, I was looking through photos and remembering how perfect the skin is fresh out of the oven, only to lose that perfect crisp, melt-in-the-mouth texture by the time the carved meat is served. I decided I would experiment. I would quickly strip most of the skin off right when the turkey came out and place on a dry plate the way they do with Peking duck. The skin can then be cut up and served separately from the meat.