Feeding 32 for Thanksgiving: Mama's Chinese Spiced Roast Turkey with Szechuan Peppercorns
Every couple of years, it's our turn to host my husband's giant family Thanksgiving celebration -- a two-day eating and games extravaganza dating back to 1950. Roasting a small preview turkey helps to generate drippings to support 15-20 pounds of mashed potatoes and ensure enough leftover turkey for the requisite Friday turkey noodle soup. I also enjoy the chance to get in a little experimentation, and to enjoy the luscious crisp fresh-from-the-oven turkey skin without distraction!
My Māmā 媽媽 would dry roast coarse salt with whole peppercorns in a skillet until the salt started to brown and the peppercorns could be crushed easily with the back of a spoon. This was rubbed over the turkey, inside and out. The salt/peppercorn mix was also rubbed over the neck and innards, which were nestled inside the cavity overnight with a good amount of ginger, garlic and scallions to "pull out" any bad odors. In the morning, the pan was cleaned and dried, the innards wrapped in foil, and the breast rubbed with toasted sesame oil before roasting. The technique that she used basically amounted to dry brining the bird for 12-24 h prior to roasting. I later discovered that the drippings produced the most delectable gravy with no additional seasoning needed.
This year, I was looking through photos and remembering how perfect the skin is fresh out of the oven, only to lose that perfect crisp, melt-in-the-mouth texture by the time the carved meat is served. I decided I would experiment. I would quickly strip most of the skin off right when the turkey came out and place on a dry plate the way they do with Peking duck. The skin can then be cut up and served separately from the meat.
Finally, I realized that allowing the turkey to warm up from the fridge on the cold roasting pan would mean that the dark meat would stay cold until the pan warmed up. I decided that I would move the turkey onto parchment paper on a rack, upside down, so that air would circulate better across the thighs and back, while being more restricted on the breast. I also tucked the foil wrapped neck and innards against the front of the breast to further insulate it. My hope was that this would result in the dark meat being warmer than the white meat when it entered the oven. I planned to roast for about 2/3 of the time upside down, before flipping the bird over. I had tried this once before to the detriment of the turkey appearance, because some of the breast skin stuck to the rack -- hence the parchment paper.
This technique worked perfectly! Although there were some unattractive indentations on the breast when first flipped using a wooden spoon and hot mitt, by the time the turkey was done, these marks were gone and the top of the turkey was browned as nicely as the bottom. As you can see below and from the temperature graph for the 22 pound turkey on Thanksgiving day, the breast stayed cooler than the thigh through the whole roasting process, and the skin was beautifully browned and crisped all over for both the small and large turkeys.
Breast temperatures stayed below thigh temperatures during roasting even after turkey was flipped. After resting 15 min, all probe temperatures converged around 160°F. |
My husband declared this the best turkey ever. After roasting, the bite from the Szechuan peppercorns mellows to the extent that you do not realize they are there. No single spice grabs center stage, but the whole mixture simply serves to enhance the turkey and drippings.
After dinner, I added water to the bones, neck, heart and gizzards in the Instant Pot to between the 2/3 and 3/4 marks. It was cooked on the soup/stock setting at high pressure for 1 h, and then left for 1-2 h to naturally release. I could not believe how good the stock smelled. I strained the stock into a bowl, returned the bones to the Instant Pot, and refrigerated both stock and bones.
After scraping the turkey fat off the top, the gelled stock was scooped into a tupperware and frozen for later use. |
The preview turkey not only yielded one delicious dinner, but also I now have a container of frozen white meat, frozen dark meat, about 2 quarts of a rich brown gelled turkey stock and 2 cups of a lighter turkey stock, which I added to the fresh drippings on Thanksgiving day for a large pot of gravy.
In a few days, I will be repeating these steps with the largest fresh turkey I could order, plus a 9-10 pound turkey breast. Click this link for more make ahead tasks: cider-baked mashed sweet potatoes, roasted brussels sprouts and butternut squash glazed in cinnamon-maple syrup, brown and wild rice for the stuffing, and browned butter bourbon spice cookies.
Update after Thanksgiving:
This recipe and roasting technique worked perfectly when scaled up for the 22 pound turkey. I used 4 Tbs kosher salt, 1.5 Tbs black peppercorns and 1 Tbs whole Szechuan peppercorn. When allowing the turkey to warm up from the refrigerator before placing in the oven, I kept the breast on ice packs on the cold broiler pan, and placed the foil wrapped neck and gizzards against the chest.The turkey was roasted breast side down on a rack on parchment, and 2/3 of the way through cooking, I got my husband's help to flip the bird and remove the parchment. The skin came out lovely and the breast stayed cooler than the thigh and back for the entire roasting time so that each type of meat was ideally cooked. Click here for Thanksgiving photos and tips that set the stage for some fantastic leftover turkey dishes.
Mama's Chinese-spiced Turkey November 21, 2019
Click here for my wild rice stuffing/dressing recipe that complements these Chinese-inspired flavors with prosciutto, dried mushrooms, and hazelnuts.
Please enjoy the recipe and share what you think. Click here for a Printer formatted version.
🍃 Use clean dishtowels instead of single-use paper towels. The dishtowel absorbs a lot more water. Plus, it is easy to wash in hot water with your next load of laundry!
🐾 Don't trust the pop-up turkey indicator that comes in the breast. They frequently fail to pop up. The Range or Range Dial probes that connect to the iPad or iPhone work better, but my older red Range probe seemed to stop working after I flipped the turkey. I use the Thermapen Instant Read thermometer for final assessment of doneness.
🐾 This frozen 13.25 pound turkey was allowed to thaw undisturbed in the refrigerator from Sat mid-day to Tues evening, before being rinsed and dry-brined until the next day. It was placed in the oven around 2:40 pm, flipped at 4:30 and done at 5:30.
https://www.love2chow.com/2019/11/feeding-31-for-thanksgiving-preview.html
1 comments
I'm going to make this delicious turkey for our Thanksgiving! Thanks for writing it all down.
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